“Where is it?” “Wasn’t it part if Czechoslovakia?” “What was it like?”
These are the most frequently asked questions that arise when I attempt to describe my recent trip to Slovenia. To answer the first three questions, this small country lies southeast of Austria and was once part of Yugoslavia. It should not be confused with Slovakia, previously of Czechoslovakia. It gained its independence as borders were being redrawn across eastern Europe after the fall of communism.
When my husband, James and I arrived in Slovenia, we decided to try to avoid the tourist beaches and the crowded coastal campgrounds. Instead, we headed for the lush green lesser-known area of the Postojna Basin, about an hour’s drive south of Ljubljana. It is 620 m in altitude and is the lowest passage between the Dinarics and the Alps. The Pivka River runs through this area, abruptly disappearing into the subterranean caves and caverns which it has been carving out for thousands and thousands of years.
These caves and caverns, otherwise known as Karst caves, rank among the most spectacular and easiest accessible in Europe. One of the best starting points to explore Slovenia’s Karst caves is the Postojna Cave, just outside of the town of Postojna. Here, there are 27 kms of subterranean passages and galleries with fantastic stalagmite and stalactite rock formations sculpted by centuries of cascading water. An electric train takes you nine kilometers underground where the temperature remains at a constant 8°C.
An experienced guide leads you through numerous illuminated galleries and points out many impressive rock formations that look like, among other figures: hens, poodles, a man riding a camel, spaghetti and the most impressive of all formations called the Brilliant – an 18m high pure white column formed from the drippings of pure limestone. This cave is also home to the Proteus Anguinus, the human fish.
The last gallery on the tour is the concert hall reaching 40 meters in height, holding up to 10,000 people and having unique acoustics – an echo lasting up to six seconds. Upon visiting the Postojna Cave the famous sculptor, Henry Moore remarked “This is the greatest and most wonderous of all galleries I have ever seen.” These illuminated subterranean galleries certainly make you appreciate Nature’s artistic endeavors and are an unforgettable optical experience.
The Pivka Jama Campground is located three or four kilometers down the road from the Postojna Caves. We decided to stay there for a few days and use it as our base point. Not only is it a first class campground ideally located in a pine forest with tennis courts and a swimming pool, but it also has its own Karst cave: Pivka Jama or Pivka Cave. A stone hewn stairway just next to the campground restaurant leads you down into more impressive subterranean tunnels and galleries of stalactites.
Not far from Pivka Jama Cave and Campground is Predjama Castle, stronghold of the last valiant knight of Slovenia, Erasmus of Predjama. From the platform in front of the village inn you see a splendid view of the newly renovated Predjama Castle amazingly situated in a high rocky hollow with its own subterranean Karst caves formed by the Lovka River below. The castle itself is a masterpiece of medieval design and craftsmanship beautifully in tune with the nature surrounding it. The Patriarch of Aquilieia, the Hapsburg family, Ivan Kobenzl, who in 1570 commissioned the construction of the castle as it is today, are among its many different owners. But the most famous owner was surely Erasmus of Predjama.
Legend has it that in the second half of the 15th century Erasmus became a robber knight after falling out of favour with Emperor Frederick III. Enraged, the Emperor commanded Gaspar Ravbar, governor of Trieste, to seek out and kill Erasmus. Having discovered Erasmus’ secret castle, Ravbar and his army proceeded to besiege Erasmus for over a year. Thanks to underground caves and passages leading to the neighboring Vipava valley Erasmus was able to replenish his food supplies, mocking and bewildering his besiegers by throwing them roast oxen and fresh cherries.
In 1484, after bribing a servant of Erasmus, Ravbar finally achieved success. As Erasmus entered an exposed part of his stronghold, where "Even the Turkish Sultan has to go alone,” the servant gave the signal and the canonball fire pumelled Erasmus to death. He is buried next to the small church in the village and according to the legend, the great lime tree over his grave was planted by his paramour.
Visiting this 16th century castle (the earliest castle had been built in the 12th century) certainly confronts you with what castle life would have been like between the 12th and 13th century: damp, drafty and dangerous. With a guide book in hand we roamed the castle, learning about the previous owners in the portrait room by checking out the defenses in the defense tower where stones were thrown and boiling water poured on the enemy and climbing to the so-called “Erasmus Castle” at the top of the castle. It is a well-secluded cave and hiding place, accessible only by a narrow rocky path. Through the large gap in this cave you see Predjama village and valley below and realize how safe from attack this castle really was.
Being such a small country, Slovenia can be crossed in a matter of a few hours. You can be enjoying the peace of a beautiful mountain lake in one moment and two hours later find yourself sunbathing on the Adriatic coast, exploring subterranean caves, or even riding on the back of a Lippizaner horse. Slovenia represents the best of Europe wrapped up into one. And, in answer to the last question, my trip there was excellent.
We took several breaks from subterranean life by going on numerous day trips to such places as:
Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia and a beautiful university town with narrow cobbled streets, cafes and shops on every street corner and a fairly imposing fortress that overlooks the city.
Lake Bled, an hour’s drive north of Ljubljana in the Julian Alps, perfectly located for hiking, swimming, windsurfing, fishing and long walks, rides on the gondola-like Pletna boats take you to the romantic church on the islet in the middle of the lake.
Lipica, breeding center of the beautiful white Lippizaner horses. Weekly exhibitions and performances, guided tour of the stables, riding lessons, pony rides for children, hotels, golf and casinos.
Rakov Skocjan Nature Reserve, where we enjoyed many walking trails and marveled at the natural bridges and many caves.
Portoroz, or the rose port, situated on the Adriatic coast, with sandy beaches, swimming pools, a marina, thermal baths and lovely rose gardens.
We stayed exclusively in campgrounds and found them to be clean, reasonably priced, beautifully located and with many activities on the grounds and nearby. For those not fond of tents, many of the campgrounds had lodges and bungalows to rent.
FURTHER INFORMATION
Only a 4-5 hour drive from Munich, Slovenia makes for a great long weekend or extended vacation.
The best route is to drive towards Salzburg and then take the A10 to Villach, there, get on the A11 towards Jesenice, Slovenia. After the border, the road then turns into the A1 which goes directly past Lake Bled and on to Ljubljana. From Ljubljana get on the A11 for Postojna and the Lipica Stud Farm.
