Christmas Markets and the Perchtenlauf

Tuesslinger Schloss Christkindlmarkt

The Christmas season has finally kicked off in Germany and I've decided that this really is the best time of year to be in Germany. I think it's because you can really feel the Christmas spirit here. Maybe it has to do with the Christmas markets and the Gluhwein (mulled wine), the bright Christmas lights cheering up the towns, or the fact that everyone just seems happier.

Last weekend, we enjoyed the first Advent Sunday. Ronan came running into our bedroom to announce happy December 1 and to ask if he could he open his advent calendar window, only to realize there was no chocolate in it. A major disappointment that we have since rectified with a second Advent calendar with chocolate.

In Germany, each Advent Sunday is celebrated by lighting one of the candles on the Advent Kranz or wreath. Many German families get together on each Advent Sunday, four altogether leading up to Christmas, to light the candle, drink mulled wine and to sing Christmas songs. Ronan and I are enjoying having a kranz and lighting the candle each evening. Looking forward to lighting candle number 2 this weekend.

This year's first Christmas market took us to the Tussling Schloss, which is where we saw Elton John perform this summer. The castle also hosts a lovely Christmas market, with a laser show, puppet shows for children and brass bands playing Christmas carols. Ronan and I went with a few of my colleagues from work and had a great, but cold time. Ronan tried out a bit of archery, I picked up a few gifties, we enjoyed the sights, sounds and smells. My favorite Christmas smell is the mix of mulled wine and bratwurstl frying.


Ronan trying archery at the market

The other event we really enjoyed this past weekend and one that I had never heard of before was the Perchtenlauf (or Krampuslauf). I’m not really sure how to best translate this term, something like “Procession of the  Perchta.” Perchten refers to the animal masks of Perchta (or Percha) who was once a goddess figure in Southern Germany, Austria, Switzerland and in parts of Italy and Slovenia. Now it refers more to the frightening masks worn by the revellers who parade through alpine towns during the Perchenlauf, which is held around the St. Nicklaus' Day (Dec. 6), to scare away the evil spirits. 

Apparently there has been bit of a revival in the Perchtenlauf in the alpine areas in Germany. Here in Burghausen, the main street was shut down to traffic and folks lined up to watch the parade. We had the choice to view it from our living room window, but opted to at least start out watching from the street where all the action is.

We watched for an hour as the Perchten paraded down main street growling, whipping, and swatting adults and teenagers, and gently scaring those children who didn't seem too frightened, and even posing for photos. They paraded in groups, each representing a different town from around the area. The costumes included the intricate and very frightening wooden masks, lots of fur, there were witches and goblins and any other frightening creature you can imagine. I loved it, it was just so pagan. A great way to get folks out into the community. There was also a DJ booth that was blasting scary music up and down the street, announcing each group. There were a few Gluhwein stands. Everyone was just gathered to watch the spectacle. Ronan preferred to enjoy it from the window of our apartment. I stayed on the street just soaking in the atmosphere and even got swatted a few times, have the bruises to prove it.

Someone about to get swatted here.